Метро Пхеньяна

В последние годы метро Пхеньяна оставалось одним из самых засекреченных мест в мире, однако фотографу Эллиоту Дэвису разрешили проехать по обеим его веткам и запечатлеть увиденное.

До недавнего времени иностранцы могли посетить лишь две станции северокорейского метро, поэтому многие журналисты считали, что никакой подземной транспортной системы в городе нет вовсе. 

Тем не менее Дэвису удалось доказать обратное: он проехал по обеим линиям метро северокорейской столицы, включающим в себя 16 станций. Отчет о поездке он опубликовал на собственном сайте, снабдив его несколькими десятками фотографий и видео.

This is Puhung Station, the terminus of the Chollima line. Before 2010, Puhung was one of only two metro stations foreign visitors were allowed into, even with mandatory guides. The other, Yonggwang Station, is just one stop ahead. Both stations are regarded as the most lavish and were the final two to be completed, likely the reason they’re chosen as showcase stations for tourism itineraries. The mural to the back is entitled ‘The Great Leader Kim Il-Sung Among Workers’.Centrepiece mosaics adorn each station and apparently, as I was told, each station also takes on a unique theme. I’ll go ahead and assume the guides meant in addition to that of the central theme — Kim Il-Sung. Here he is, a humble representation of the sun itself, gazing down upon the reunification of North and South Korean citizens. All under the North Korean flag, no less. Tongil Station, Chollima line.Kim Il-Sung and I at Kaeson Station. The statue pictured used to be a dull, boring white marble portrayal of the great man, so he’s had quite a gleaming upgrade in recent years. Kaeson translates to ‘Triumph’ — each metro station is named referencing the socialist revolution (Comrade, Red Star, Glory, Complete Victory, etc.) and not by location. Kaeson, however, is the only station with a referenceable landmark in the ‘Arch of Triumph’.This mosaic is a celebration of the Workers’ Party of Korea. Kim Il-Sung, noticeably more detailed than his peers, unveils the inspiring, revolutionary outcome of their hardline commitment to the Juche idea. Kind of like Mufasa presenting The Pride Lands to Simba on Pride Rock in the Lion King, just with more socialism. Banners translate to: “Hurray to our outstandingly wise leader, Kim Il-Sung!” and “Hurray to the founding of the Workers’ Party of Korea!”This is Yonggwang Station, the second and final stop for most tourists of the past. This arbitrary restriction spawned conspiracy theories that the Pyongyang Metro was merely two stations in total, and the well-dressed commuters were just actors assigned to delude visitors into the impression of an extensive public transport system that didn’t actually exist. If you hadn’t realised yet, that’s total hogwash. As an aside, the murals on each wall here are a massive eighty metres long.“Hurray to the liberation of women!” Chonu Station, the transfer station from Chollima to the only other officially recognised line, Hyoksin. There’s been some evidence to suggest another secretive line or network of lines exist restricted to government and military use only. This includes one prominent defector account and verification of North Korea importing over double the required number of train carriages required for their public system, even accounting for spares.Train attendants manning the Metro entry above ground. Direct public service roles in North Korea require military-inspired uniforms. The banner above the escalator reads: “Long Live General Kim Jong-Un, the Sun of Songun (military-first) Korea!” Puhung Station, Chollima line.One of our North Korean guides reading a Lonely Planet guidebook on North Korea. This book was allowed into the country after being cleared by customs. He was glued to it for hours, fascinated as to an outside perspective of his beloved country. Hwanggumbol, Hyoksin line.“Out you go, U.S Military!” and “National Unification” are the translations. Bronze plaques depicting scenes of the Korean War, of national productivity, reunification or victory celebration are standard across most stations. Tongil Station, Chollima line.“Hurray to the glorious Workers’ Party of Korea!” Trains arrived every five to seven minutes, during peak times every two minutes. Before departures, the platforms were packed just as anywhere in the world.Shielded by the Worker’s Party of Korea flag, the Korean people advance under the leadership of Eternal President Kim Il-Sung. You’ll notice each subject has a unique role — there’s the soldiers, naval officer, air force pilot, police, engineers, architect, mechanic, cleaner, cook, farmer, and peasant; everybody contributes to the wider success and victory of glorious Korea. This is motivating to the people, regardless of their profession.One of the most striking monuments in the Pyongyang Metro. Kwangbok Station sits in relative darkness, brightened only by this shining, spotless statue of Kim Il-Sung at the very end. It was quite creepy if I’m honest.Street-level entry to Yonggwang Station. The banner translates: “Following the great leader of our party, let’s head to the final victory!” The streets of Pyongyang are spotless; I don’t think I saw a single piece of litter in the city.All hype aside, Konguk Station was similar to the others — shined marble floors clean enough to eat from, walls you’d sooner expect inside mansions of the rich and famous and overall dimmed platforms brightened only for one man, the man himself…Kim Il-Sung.This bronze plaque depicts a working class North Korean family being displaced and repressed by the U.S Army during the Korean War. It appears as though it may be bordering the Demilitarized Zone. The anti-US sentiment is still fundamental to much of North Koren artworks, those deemed as ‘propaganda’ or otherwise. Tongil Station, Chollima line.Thirty metres long, this mural commemorates the independence of Korea in 1945, ‘Victory over Japan Day’ when the peninsula was liberated from Japanese rule. Kaeson Station, Chollima line.Kim Jong-Il doesn’t feature as much as I’m sure he’d like in the Pyongyang Metro although this may change, as recent as 2013, this mural used to be of North Korean holy site Mount Paekdu instead. Mount Paekdu is the highest mountain on the Korean Peninsula; North Korean state media has always claimed Kim Jong-Il was born at the peak in a secret military camp, the event held as biblical by the people. Soviet records, however, indicate he was actually born in Russia. Yonggwang Station, Chollima line.The extra detail put into the face of Kim Il-Sung is evident here. Each person in every mural is smiling, it’s imperative that Kim Il-Sung is portrayed as a man of the people, a role model and source of inspiration for children and adults alike. However, I felt many of the murals with children came across as creepy, one at the orphanage in Nampo in particular.A train about to depart on time behind one of the many bronze plaques in Tongil Station on the Chollima line.“Oh Chosun (the historical term referring to Korea), here we announce the birth of Baekdoo (referring to Kim Jong-Il).” This mural depicts the sacred ‘Slogan Trees’, places of pilgrimage for North Koreans. I visited one of these trees in Pujon County in the north-east; it was a tree, encased in glass, protected by shutters and inscribed with a revolutionary slogan. State media claim the slogans were made by soldiers of the same large-scale ‘secret military camp’ blessed by Kim Jong-Il’s birth as Kim Il-Sung headed it. In reality, records indicate during this period Kim Il-Sung was actually in exile in Russia. Kwangbok Station, Hyoksin line.An example of the grandiose chandeliers inside. This one was at the top of an escalator at ground level. Apparently, the extravagance underground is designed to bring affluence and luxury to the lives of even the lower working class, serving as inspiration in pursuing national goals. Hwanggumbol, Hyoksin line.“Hurray to our General Kim Il-Sung, the outstandingly wise leader!” Kaeson Station, Chollima line.Kim Il-Sung reading a book about Kim Il-Sung. “The Nations Sun, leader Kim Il-Sung.” How modest. Tongil Station, Chollima line.Kim Il-Sung and Kim Jong-Il appear in daily newspapers inspecting factories, educational facilities, agriculture plantations, military installations or drills just as if they’re current events.

This was in today’s paper. “Let the immortal achievements built by the Workers’ Party of Korea last for as long as ten million years.” Ponghwa Station, Chollima line.Plaque depicting military encampments in the northern forests of North Korea. Kwangbok Station, Hyoksin line.The anti-Japanese revolutionary struggle. Kwangbok Station, Hyoksin line.Kim Il-Sung announcing his plans in rebuilding the modern city of Pyongyang following the destruction from the Korean War. This was in 1953, the day after the armistice between the North and South of Korea was signed. There are other huge murals in Konsol Station showcasing heavy industry, construction sites and builders working through blood, sweat, and tears to recreate Kim Il-Sung’s vision of a showcase capital, a living testament to socialist efficiency and accomplishment.Hwanggumbol Station, or ‘Golden Soil’ Station, has platforms suitably celebrating the agriculture and farming industry. North Korea’s model of self-sufficiency relies upon cooperative farming to feed its people. Which, due to flooding and restricted Soviet food-aid in the 1990’s contributed to the humanitarian crisis we know as the North Korean famine. Inside North Korea, this disaster is known as the ‘Arduous March,’ an optimistic term coined by the regime to defer State responsibility and its failure in preventing countrywide famine.Luminous eye-catching gold watches are a direct symbol of affluence in North Korea. Oversized, loose-fitting shirts, silk suit jackets and pants or neat blouses and skirts make up most of the daily style choices. Even in rural areas, men wear shining, silk suit jackets on bare skin in the heat. Branding and advertising don’t exist in North Korea as a result of virtually zero market freedom, leaving clothing design and distribution up to the State. Oddly, I couldn’t help but notice how commonplace blue socks were in North Korea, even in formal dress. Weird. Hyoksin Station, Hyoksin line.Another scene of national reunification under the rule of Kim Il-Sung. The banner reads: “Hurray to General Kim Il-Sung!” Kwangbok Station, Hyoksin line.Low-hanging chandeliers did their best to brighten most stations; however, the tube was pitch black, and the trains themselves were very dark inside, some had flickering lights, and the doors were manually operated. Train attendants at each station moved in a purposeful, militaristic manner similar to that of the Pyongyang traffic ladies, raising their paddles each time the train arrived or departed. Konsol Station, Hyoksin line.You can see here just how many pieces make up only a small section of each mosaic, of which there must be close to one hundred in the Pyongyang Metro. Konsol Station, Hyoksin line.“Maximise increased production and saving of money” Kim Il-Sung giving an inspirational speech of efficiency to those working in fields of industry. Hyoksin Station, Hyoksin line.It may be a minor detail, but the way men stand, up straight with their hands interlocked behind their backs became a mannerism I found only synonymous to this extent in North Korea. On thinking about it, it may be influenced by years of watching Kim Il-Sung and Kim Jong-Il in news media; both had the same habit. Pulgunbyol Station, Chollima line.North Korea is a military-first state; expenditures, allocation of resources and national affairs are prioritised towards the interests of Korean People’s Army. If you’ve yet to notice, they’re quite proud of having one of the largest active military forces on earth — both men and women are indoctrinated early into accepting military influence as normality and for men, military conscription is a gruelling 11 years, the longest of any country. Samhung Station, Hyoksin line.But, they’re also proud of their scientific advancement, in particular…nuclear breakthroughs, flaunted politically to the rest of the world. Samhung Station is an overall celebration of Kim Il-Sung’s ‘Three Revolutions’ — the Ideological, Technical and Cultural aspects of North Korea. There’s even a museum of the same name in Pyongyang.Sporting achievements are also showcased. You may laugh, but would you believe me if I told you North Korea is legitimately home to the largest sporting stadium on earth? The Rungrado May Day Stadium, a capacity of 150,000 people. Yes, I was just as surprised.This mural went up a considerable time ago; I’d tell you that the technology promoted has far progressed beyond this point…but I’m not so sure. In all seriousness, I did see Windows XP desktop PC’s used in the Grand People’s Study House and as the control centre to a fertiliser factory on the east coast, which says something. Samhung Station, Hyoksin line.Imagine the opening ceremony of the Olympics, but with 100,000 participants and themed as an ultra-nationalist ‘synchronized socialist-realist spectacular’ of politicised gymnastics and performing arts. That’s North Korea’s ‘Arirang Mass Games’. Participants are mainly students and children who practice every day for almost six months to perform for three months, leaving many observers concerned over human rights violations. Beyond the making-of, the performance itself cannot be faulted, an organisational masterpiece needing to be seen to be believed. It’s no wonder North Korea are proud of their cultural arts.“We pray for the nations sun, leader Kim Il-Sung’s long life.” Tongil Station, Chollima line.“We shall strike powerfully and construct the nation into an athletic powerhouse by vigorously stirring up a physical education frenzy!”, “Serve the patriotic achievements of the representative men to present dignity and honour of the homeland to the entire nation.”, “Freshly built pool and port resorts in mountain villages of the sea.”, “Presenting the proud accomplishments of the September celebration event (National Day).”, “Stirring weather, overflowing Chosun (Korea).” Tongil Station, Chollima line.Perfectly fitting mural to Hwanggumbol Station, otherwise known as ‘Golden Soil.’This gives you a better idea as to how prominent the monuments are to each station — you can always rely upon Kim Il-Sung and his glowing smile. Kaeson Station, Chollima line.An ‘Industrial Purchase Shop’ we passed in Hwanggumbol Station. We weren’t allowed to purchase anything or take photos. It looked just like the cheap Chinese trinket stalls found beyond North Korea, even selling tasteless mobile covers, specifically for the Chinese ZTE line of phones (e.g. ZTE V880) and also the Panasonic T21 and T45 models. The fact they were referred to by real product names, not rebrands was very surprising. Knock-off sunglasses, fragrances, purses, and even earphones were for sale, as were plastic water pistols, rubber ducks, and bubble blowers. Amongst the plush toys was Mickey Mouse, romantic bears with ‘Angel’ and ‘Baby’ in English stitched to each foot, and a balloon even had Disney’s Snow White on it. Fascinating.And finally, walking out of Chonsung Station, to fireworks and flowers, spotlights and smiles, you as the reader have now reached the end of the line, the end of this gallery, at least. We visited every station today, and as someone without an exact fetish for trains or historic tube systems, I felt enthralled by the ride, another porthole into North Korea, and I hope you did too. Thanks for joining me for a closer look at the elusive Pyongyang Metro system!

Bonus:

This scene is neither from the Pyongyang Metro or merely another mural. In fact, it’s not a mural at all. It’s a large-scale diorama, 360 degrees of three-dimensional objects and flat artworks, putting you right into the action of the Kim Il-Sung-led construction of the Pyongyang Metro back in 1973. It gets weirder; this diorama exists in the ‘Metro Museum’, an entire museum dedicated purely to the opening of the Pyongyang Metro. It’s just as quirky as it sounds, an overall shrine to Kim Il-Sung’s leadership. Inside, there are glass-encased exhibits containing the chair Kim Il-Sung sat in while inspecting construction, the pen he used to sign papers, a microphone he spoke into, a reconstruction of the escalators and even a walk-through recreation of an entire tunnel section. The idolisation is mindblowing.Here you can see clearer, the ground, train tracks, and rockface are physical and leading into the rest of the scene to create the overall illusion. The Metro Museum was an architectural showpiece itself, multiple levels of open space rooms, the walls, and floor made from the finest granite and marble. Each room was manned by North Korean guides in traditional Hanbok to assist in our Pyongyang Metro education. To say North Korea is proud of this metro system is an understatement.